Flat Holm excursion

Right of centre: Flat Holm and Steep Holm from Penarth
You can guess which is which!

Flat Holm and Steep Holm are two islands approximately 1/3 and 2/3 distance respectively between Lavernock Point in the Vale of Glamorgan, South East Wales and Weston Super Mare in Somerset, England. Flat Holm is part of Wales, whilst Steep Holm belongs to the English. Living in the area, I've often looked at these islands, but this year we decided to go and visit Flat Holm. Both are actually accessible to visitors, although bookings need to be done through proper outlets. We booked a trip with Bay Island Voyages leaving from Cardiff Bay. 

Our ride with Cardiff Bay and Penarth Head in the background

Our fist booking a couple of months ago was cancelled due to inclement weather (which might be a good thing as you'll read later), but we rebooked last week, and went out on Wednesday 26th. The trip allows for about 2-3 hours on the island, which is plenty as it's only about 1 square mile. Note that the Steep Holm trip leaves you there for 12 hours, presumably due to tide limitations.

Approaching the sea locks on the barrage on our outward journey

We met our crew at Cardiff Bay, and got suited up with lifejackets and had our safety briefing, before heading out into the bay towards the large sea locks that we would pass through into the Bristol Channel. Wet weather gear is recommended for the trip - spray is possible, let alone risk of rain, although to be fair we got neither and stayed dry. It's also as much to keep warm on the ride over. The ride was smooth(ish) in our RIB with Craig at the helm. I'd imagine on a non flat sea it could be quite fun!

Arriving at Flat Holm jetty

Once dropped off at the jetty, we were met by a couple of the wardens who gave us some quick instructions about what to do (and not to do) and look out for. After this we walked with them to one of the buildings to pay our £5 per person landing fee (cash only). 

There's a permanent residence of wardens/rangers on the island, although they rotate every month or so. They look after the upkeep of the island and undertake research as well as looking after visitors. The island is also visited by groups such as scout groups, and there is a camping field, some bunkhouse accommodation although this is all relatively primitive - luxury glamping or camping this is not!

With one of the wardens (Josh) we then did a shortish tour of the island, with Josh giving us some great information on the history of the place and showing us the sights. After the tour, we had some time to wander around on our own, before heading back to the jetty for our pick up.

There are several aspects to the islands history, much of which you will find in the links above, or by doing a bit of your own research and Googling, so I won't repeat any detail here, but broadly:

• The island has been inhabited by various people since the Dark Ages, or possibly earlier.
• There's the lighthouse and foghorn station. The light is still used to warn shipping of the islands hazards, but the foghorn has been silent since the late 80's/early 90's bar a reprieve for the millennium celebrations.
• The Victorians had a barracks here with 9 gun emplacements to ward off any attacks from the French, although this never came.
• It was here that the first radio message over water, sent by Marconi from Lavernock Point was successfully received. The message was "Are you ready?"
• There was a cholera isolation hospital on the island
• It's home to the most southerly pub in Wales, the "Gull and Leek" (although it's actually a very small room in the Victorian Barracks that does serve bottles of beer and snacks).
• It's a haven for wildlife - especially gulls
• There's a very small museum and gift shop in the barracks, but again this is cash only.

A word on the gulls. Flat Holm is a nesting colony for gulls - predominantly black backed and black headed gulls. There were thousands of them. The wardens warned us that they could be quite aggressive - indeed they ARE aggressive during peak nesting season (May/June - so this would have been the time of our original booking - good miss!), dive bombing and pooping on anyone who comes close to their nests - which frankly is pretty unavoidable! Their best advice was to wear a hat, and not look up!

Flat Holm light

The old cholera hospital

The old farmhouse, now warden and visitor accommodation

The disused foghorn

Resident bunny

There were gulls. Lots of gulls. No really, lots

One of the old guns

Gun and light

Gun emplacement

The guns were house in cylindrical pits to hide them from any marauding French. They were then raised up to fire. There were 9 emplacements in all, but never more than enough gunners to man 7 of them at once.

Awaiting passage through the sea locks on our return

All in all we had a very enjoyable couple of hours on the island. I'm so glad we went and explored somewhere that's so close, and yet so far away. Highly recommended.

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