Friday, July 01, 2022

Puffin extravaganza

Full disclosure. I'm smitten with puffins.

Skomer puffins

Having never seen one in the flesh before, I'd booked an excursion to the Pembrokeshire island of Skomer some months ago as a birthday present for my wife as she wanted to see puffins, and Skomer is one of the best places in the country to see them as they descend in their tens of thousands from the arctic to breed.

We'd booked a stay in Milford Haven, in a superb Air BnB right on the marina for a couple of nights, making a short break of it. Having stayed in Milford Haven in September last year we knew the place pretty well and had booked a couple of restaurants for the nights we were there. The day we travelled we went to the picturesque Bosherston Lily Ponds which were in bloom, and the impressive Broadhaven South beach with the iconic Church Rock just off the bay.

Broadhaven South and Church Rock

Bosherston Lily Ponds

But enough of that, you came here for puffins!

There's limited landing of a maximum of 250 people a day during the season on Skomer for good reason, it being owned and managed by the Welsh Wildlife Trust. The island is a haven for breeding seabirds of all shapes and sizes, but particularly puffins, razorbills and guillemots. We booked our tickets via Pembrokeshire Island Boat Trips (I don't think you can do it any other way). We parked at the National Trust car park at Martin's Haven, for free, being NT members, before collecting our boat tickets from the lodge adjacent to the car park which is also a little gift shop where you can buy a cold drink or an ice cream (we bought some puffin mugs on the way back!). Just for clarification, I'd booked online and had e-tickets issued, but you have to verify this at the lodge and pick up a specific coloured boat time ticket).

Being an albeit shortish boat trip from Martin's Haven, sailings and landings are subject to weather, sea conditions and so on, and refunds will only be given if they cancel - which they can do at short notice. We had a story about one person who'd travelled from Manchester only to find out 40 minutes prior to sailing that they couldn't go due to conditions, so do bear that in mind. The weather and seas in this part of the world are notoriously fickle, and whilst they'll do everything possible to get you there, sometimes it just ain't gonna happen.

Anyway, we sailed on time. A seagull landed on the boat shortly after we set off - I though he was just hitching a ride, be he knew better. The skipper of the boat gives hime 3 cheese puffs each time the boat goes!

Cheese puff anyone?

I was worried that my little bridge camera (even though it's got a decent zoom) wouldn't be able to get near enough to the puffins to get some decent shots, my fears exacerbated by some of the enormous camera lenses and other kit being carried by some of the other passengers. I mean seriously big lenses!

We started to see puffins and other seabirds as we approached Skomer and people started snapping away. After landing and climbing the steep 89 steps, we were given a briefing by one of the volunteer wardens. Essentially, don't start for the paths as puffins and other nesting birds are everywhere. Sure enough, on the climb up from the boat, which is one of the main puffin nesting spots, they were literally within touching distance! I needed have worried about my little (compared to many others) camera! Indeed, some of the best shots of the day I took with my iPhone 13 Pro.

We had five hours on the island. There's little shelter and no facilities other than one set of (rudimentary) toilets in the centre of the island, and water for sale, so you need to come prepared. Once you're up on top, the goings is fairly flat and not unduly strenuous, but the steps up are steep. We walked virtually the perimeter of the island, cross crossing a couple of times. It's about a four mile walk around - we did nearly six miles on the day, which turned out to be lovely and sunny and warm with a gentle breeze.
 I'me only going to give you a couple of taster pics here, the link to my full album is below. Suffice it to say, there was never any danger of getting some fabulous photos of these little birds that make you smile every time your see them. The only real danger was running our of battery power (I ALWAYS carry at least one spare) or filling my memory card (I ALWAYS carry a spare).

It was an absolutely fantastic day, and a pleasure to see and be amongst these beautiful little seabirds as they go about their business of rearing their young. I'd heartily recommend this trip.




As well as they puffins and other seabirds including oystercatchers, we also saw pheasant, rabbits and voted. A short eared owl is sometimes around but he wasn't making an appearance on this day.



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