Friday, January 28, 2022

Walk: Monmouthire & Brecon Canal

The Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal

We like a country walk, although my better half prefers a flat perambulation, or at worst a gentle incline which can be a somewhat troublesome problem living in Wales. I've been trying to get her up Pen y Fan since we first met some 30 years ago, but she's steadfastly managed to avoid that so far.

Yesterday, rather than return to one of our usual and more local haunts we decided to change up and head to Brecon and walk along the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal for a couple of miles. The weather in Barry was a bit meh at least for the morning, but our various weather apps, and Wales's own weather guru Derek the Weather promised sunshine further north in Brecon.

Driving up the A470 towards Brecon didn't instil great confidence in the forecast as low grey cloud and occasional drizzle was in evidence most of the way. However as we passed Pen y Fan a couple of blue sky patches were becoming visible, although the tops of the Beacons were still clouded over.

We arrived at the car park adjacent to Theatre Brycheiniog at the Brecon canal basin for a very reasonable £2.90 for up to four hours - incidentally, I once saw David "Bumble" Lloyd, the former cricketer, Umpire, England cricket coach and Sky Sports commentator in his show at the theatre - now he's got some tales to tell!

Getting our boots on, the skies were still decidedly grey with a spot of drizzle threatening, but within minutes it had passed and we started off.

Our starting point - Brecon Basin

The Brecon basin is one end of the roughly 35 mile navigable canal, that runs first east and then south towards Newport, although much of the previous canal from Pontymoile Basilisks at Pontypool is now either non navigable or has been filled in.

Helpful bench if you've forgotten your map!

Initially, the towpath runs through the outskirts of eastern Brecon with the town on your left beyond the canal and flied stretching to the Beacons and Pen y Fan on the right with the river Usk running alongside but below the canal. As you reach the outskirts of the town you pass the Army's Infantry Battle School - it was quite on the way out, but on our return leg they were practising (at least I hope they were practising), and the sound of gunfire/artillery was VERY loud!

The canal right from the start was crystal clear - usually canals are quite silty, and having been an avid fisherman in my earlier days whenever I see water of any kind, I'm always thinking fish. Bizarrely though on our almost 5 mile there and back walk, despite constantly looking I didn't see a single fish in the canal. They must be there as there were plenty of Merthyr & District Angling Club signs, but not even a stickleback did I see.

There's only one lock on this section, and that was towards the end of our outward destination, so the well maintained towpath was adequately flat for Anne. We took our time ambling along, stopping for coffee (brought with us - no coffee or snack options available on the canalside once you start) and passed or were passed by a few dog walkers, other walkers and an occasional cyclist.

Brynich Aqueduct over the Usk
from the bridge by Brynich Lock

We paused briefly at Brynich Lock just before the canal rounds a bend and then passes above the river Usk on the Brynich aqueduct, some 25-30ft above the river. Just beyond here, you cross a bridge as the towpath changes to the left hand side of the canal, but backtracking towards the aqueduct were a few strategically placed benches and picnic tables that made for a perfect picnic stop.

Brynich Lock

Brynich Aqueduct

By now the sun had broken through in patches, and felt quite warm on our backs making for a pleasant picnic stop.

Having been fed and watered we meandered back along the tranquil canal - or it was tranquil until the Infantry started up! The clouds were on the move and we were now able to see the tops of Pen y Fan and Cribyn from the towpath.

Cribyn (left) Pen y Fan from the towpath
River Usk foreground

All in all we had a lovely few hours out and it's a walk we might certainly do more of - we've walked some of the canal a little further along near Talybont on Usk.

Our visit was pretty much turn up and see how we go, but for those who need a little more detail ahead of a trip out here there's a handy guide on just this walk available here.

On the Brynich Aqueduct looking back toward the bridge at Brynich Lock


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