Sunday, December 31, 2023

Lincolnshire - land of my youth

The Lincolnshire fens near Billingborough

We're just back from a swift visit between Christmas and New Year, to my brother's in Lincolnshire. We lived about 8 miles away from where he now lives from (very) late 1969 until 1979, so my formative years between 10 and 20 were spent growing up there. I wrote briefly about it here a long time ago.

We lived on the fens, where it is very flat. It's rural and pretty much all arable farming land. It can be very bleak, and the skies are huge courtesy of the flatness, and consequently it can get very windy too.

When my parents moved to Chepstow in 1979 I was in many ways glad to leave Lincolnshire behind, but the longer I've been away, the more I find myself missing it

It's been several years since we've made it over there, so it was great to get back for a big family get together. and a walk round the area taking in Sempringham Abbey when the rain stopped!

Sempringham Abbey

Who knew that there was a Welsh connection in Lincolnshire? Certainly It's not something I knew about when I lived near here!

Sempringham Abbey info

The fens lie very low - some below sea level, and most not far above it. The land is drained by "dykes" that criss cross the land, edging many of the fields before draining into larger "drains" and eventually, the local rivers and onto the Wash. Some of the dykes are little more than small ditches, and some are huge - almost rivers in their own right, usually with steep sided banks. Many a day I spent fishing on my local drain, the South Forty Foot drain a couple of miles from my house. I spent much of my youth wandering the fens in my local area near Donington, the village where we lived. Fishing, exploring the dykes and bridges and observing wildlife from pheasants, to curlews, water voles and more.

Sempringham Abbey, a dyke and a old bridge

Nostalgia eh? 

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Thursday, December 21, 2023

The glorious Peak District - even in the rain

I'm a bit late with this post - about a month and half late truth be told. Stuff just gets in the way, doesn't it?

Higger Tor from the Longshaw Estate

As regular readers will know, we usually have a large family get away in late October/early November, most often to the Peak District, but a couple of times to Devon. This year it was the Peaks again and a week away in Matlock. Slightly depleted this year, as a few couldn't make it, and more poignantly our first family get away after losing my brother in law to cancer in March (he was the one who'd booked this trip), a total of 11 of us made the trip. With only my daughter and wife's niece under 50, we're long past the days of hiking up the bigger hills on 10 mile traipses. A couple of miles and a nice coffee shop tended to be the order of the day for the most part.

We stayed in a large house - Riber House on a hill overlooking Matlock and underneath the imposing Riber Hall. The journey to the house was inserting. Up a 1:3/1:4 hill with a couple of sharp hairpin bends, before a quarter of a mile along a rough track, but worth it. The house was fantastically set up, and included a hot tub on the patio and a pool table in the basement. The only downside, it was remote, so no easy walk to a pub. Mind you, we had enough beer and wine to sink a battleship!

The hot tub was well utilised, and we did find a nice pub that served food for an evening meal out, and we were very comfortable in the well equipped house during our stay. 

Our accommodation is the house just below Riber Hall
Taken from a bridge over the river Derwent in Matlock

As is usual, we broke our journey up from South Wales with an overnight stop at my sister-in-law's house in Solihull. The following day we stopped en route to Matlock at Keddlestone Hall a National Trust property, for a wiser, coffee and a bite to eat. As most of the group are NT members, a lot of our visits tend towards places like this and it was a pleasant stop for a couple of hours.

(Some of) The grounds of Keddlestone Hall

After a week of decent weather, the forecast for our week away was pretty miserable. Our first full day was a bit of a washout with the weather, although we popped into Matlock in the rain. The next day we managed to dodge the showers on a lovely walk along the Cromford canal a couple of miles from Matlock. When the sun did peek through the rain clouds, it lit up the autumn foliage beautifully. 

Some of the crew

Cromford Canal

Chatsworth estate is a regular haunt on our visits to this area, but we're normally too early for the Christmas decorations and market. This year though we were better timed, and had booked tickets to see the festive decorations in the house. We began with a walk across the grounds to the house and around the Christmas market before going into the house at our allotted time. The place was heaving - the market especially so, but the timed entry to the house at least kept the crowds slightly more organised.

Chatsworth House
(the hundreds of visitor cars not visible in this photo!)

Inside the main hall at Chatsworth

The following day was another wet one (well they all were to be fair), and we had a leisurely walking from a car park close to Bakewell, into the town and a meander around the shops, stopping for the obligatory coffee and snack. Bakewell's a lovely spot, though obviously gets very busy because it's such a pretty and central spot.

Bakewell and the river Derwent

One of the things I defiantly wanted to see on this visit was the Derwent reservoir dam, just above the Ladybower reservoir. This was the series of dams that the Dambusters used as their training ground before their famous attack on the Rhur dams. Whilst that peaked my interests, I was rather more interested to see if the water was flowing over the top - given all the rain we'd had, I needed have worried. It was pouring over!

Water overspilling the Derwent Dam

Alongside the Derwent Dam

The Derwent Dam

Ladybower reservoir below the Derwent Dam

Our final day we parked at another NT place, Longshaw Estate and did a 5 or so mile circular walk through down through get impressive Padley Gorge. The weather was kinder to us and whilst it was wet underfoot, at least it didn't rain! The autumn colours, and gushing brook and waterfalls were fabulous.
Oh, and we stopped for coffee and cake...

Descending into Padley Gorge

Down at the bottom

Nearly back out

Once again, we had a fantastic week despite the rain which we mostly managed to avoid. Matlock is a little further south than we've normally been, but to be honest, nowhere's that far as to be unmanageable. Derwent Dam for instance was about a 45 minute drive. 
I love the Peak District. So many interesting places and superb walking to be had. If you haven't been, you should go. If you have, then you'll know...

We're back to Devon next year though, at a spot near Bideford, so that'll be a nice change.


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Monday, December 18, 2023

Mosquito by Rowland White: Review



I've just finished this book. I wanted to drop a note to the author, Rowland White who I follow on Twitter (I still won't call it "X") to say how much I enjoyed it, but the character limit wouldn't let me do it justice. I've therefore written this review which I'll link in a Tweet to him.

I've never written a review of a book before, so I guess that's a testament to how good I found this one!

Firstly, some background. I started following Rowland when someone retweeted a post he'd written about writing this book. I have a passing interest in both aircraft and history, although admittedly this is VERY much from a layman's perspective. However, I followed Rowland's tweets to eventual publication, and asked for and got, this book for my birthday a month or so ago.

It's probably, as far as my 64 year old mind can recall, one of the first historical books I've ever read (or rather started and finished). Often I find historical tomes a little hard going. Mosquito was anything but.

I also have a soft spot for the de Havilland Mosquito. The very, very tenuous link for this comes from the fact that my late mum's cousin, actress Barbara Archer who we all knew as "Aunty Barbara" was in the 1964 film "633 Squadron" about an attack on a WWII rocket fuel factory by the aforementioned (but fictional) squadron flying the Mosquito. She was the barmaid in the Black Swan pub where the fictional crew drank. I also built a 1:72 scale Airfix model of the Mosquito when I was a lad. I think also, the fact that it was an aircraft built of wood, when (virtually) every other plane of its era was metal, gave it an intriguing status.

Anyway, to the book. 

I expected this to be a book solely about the aircraft and its role, and specifically when used on attacks on Gestapo HQ's in Denmark. Whilst the book built up to this, and particularly the climactic attack Operation Carthage on the Shellhus in Copenhagen, the building being used at Gestapo HQ, and with prisoners there as a human shield, the book is far more involved than just telling the story of the aircraft.

Broadly, it covers the war in Denmark, and the role of the Special Operations Executive (SOE) and the role of it's Denmark section, the spies involved and the resistance in fighting the Nazi regime. This was made all the more problematic because Denmark had been invaded by Germany, but then set out as a protectorate. In effect, Denmark was being "protected" by Germany, and therefore was not an "ally". Obviously, that's not how the majority of Danes saw it though.

The Mosquito played a huge part in the war against Germany. Not only on its attacks on German military targets, but ferrying personnel and equipment to and from Denmark and neutral Sweden in order for the SOE members and Danish resistance to carry out their work.

There are too many people in the book to remember and reference here, but two stand outs from the RAF's point of view were Basil Embry who's flying and leadership of the Mosquito (and other) squadrons throughout was incredible, and Ted Sismore, an exceptional and very young navigator - indeed most of the flying crew were frighteningly young.

What makes this book so readable is the detail and research that Rowland White has gone into. You really get a sense during the flight operations of what it must have been like to fly those ops - and mostly it was scary and frightening. The bravery, composure and skills of pilots, navigators can only be imagined, flying sometimes twice a night and on daylight raids against relentless flak and the risk of interception by enemy fighters. Sadly there were all too many losses of both aircraft and crew, although it's pointed out in the epilogue that the "Mossie" had one of the best rations of ops to losses of all aircraft in the war.

The other "act' to this book, is the outstanding bravery of those members of the Danish population who were recruited and trained by SOE then parachuted back into Denmark to co-ordinate the resistance, undertake sabotage and report back. These were ordinary members of the public. I think our view of spies/saboteurs is so easily influenced by television and film, but this book really brings home the challenges, constant threat of nature, torture and death that members of the SOE/resistance, and indeed our armed forces faced during the conflict. 

Sadly, there are also the civilian casualties to record. In conflict, as we know all too well in current events around the world, civilians die and that's terrible. This book's climatic operation against the Gestapo HQ in Copenhagen, also bore a terrible civilian loss, as one of the Mosquitos crashed near a school and the ensuing fire and smoke was mistaken by following aircraft as the primary target. Many children and adults lost their lives in the resulting bombing. Those risks were known, as was the fact that the actual target had many members of the resistance and SOE spies in captivity on it's top floor, meaning the mission had condemned them to almost certain death. In the event, some managed to escape the bombing, but the horror of it is well captured in the book. But it must also be remembered the torment that the Danish SOE chief had whilst deciding whether to go ahead with the mission knowing that both SOE/resistance colleagues were being held in the target, and that the target was smack bang in the middle of a residential area in Copenhagen. No one would want to be put in that position. 

Soon after the raid the Germans surrendered. The efforts of the Danish resistance, the SOE and the RAF (amongst many others) came at a terrible price, but by defeating Germany, there was at least the chance to rebuild.

For myself one of the most harrowing passages of the book, is not about the the raids, or the Mosquito, or the SOE or resistance, but a statement from Herr Walter Darré a once influential Nazi theoretician. I hope Rowland will forgive me for putting this down verbatim here, because it reminds us all, what the Allies were fighting against, and for:

As soon as we beat England we shall make an end of you Englishmen once and for all. Able-bodied men and women will be exported as slaves to the Continent. The old and weak will be exterminated. All men remaining in Britain as slaves will be sterilized; a million or two of the young women the Nordic type will be segregated in a number of stud farms where, with the assistance of picked German sires, during a period of 10 or 12 years, they will produce annually a series of Nordic infants to be brought up in every way as Germans. These infants will form the future population of Britain. They will be partially educated in Germany. Only those who satisfy the Nazi's requirements will be allowed to return to Britain and take up permanent residence. The rest will be sterilized and sent to join slave gangs in Germany. Thus in a generation or two, the British will disappear.
And so in summary, I found this a fascinating book on a number of levels. Learning more about the fabulous Mosquito and the men who flew it. The SOE, which I knew of, but little about. The Germans and their approach to administering Denmark and fighting the resistance. The Resistance, and how compartmentalised it was. The civilians and all they did to help where they could.

But mostly, the brutality and horrors of war, and the bravery of all those involved in fighting and eventually defeating the Nazi threat.

Highly recommended.

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